How to clean rangehoods, by brand

31 brand guides, each starting with how to identify what you own before anything goes near it.

Our rangehood cleaning service

What every rangehood clean has in common

Most rangehood advice stops at the filters, which is why most rangehoods stay dirty. A filter is a trap, and emptying the trap leaves everything that got past it.

Ducted or recirculating

Ducted hoods push air outside and carry metal grease filters only.

Recirculating hoods filter the air and return it to the kitchen. They have the same metal filters plus a charcoal filter behind them for odour. Charcoal filters are a consumable, replaced every six to twelve months, and they are not washable. Washing one produces a wet obstruction that restricts airflow while doing nothing for smell. A recirculating hood that no longer controls odours almost always has an exhausted one still fitted.

Mesh or baffle, and the dishwasher question

Aluminium mesh is several layers of fine expanded metal in a frame. Stainless baffles are overlapping angled plates that force the air to change direction so grease runs down into a trap.

Aluminium mesh must never go in a dishwasher. Dishwasher detergent is strongly alkaline, it oxidises aluminium, and the mesh comes out a chalky grey that never recovers. On some frames it also softens the adhesive holding the assembly together. Stainless baffles survive a dishwasher, but a flat soak cleans both better and risks neither.

Lay filters flat in hot water with a non-caustic degreaser for an hour. Flat, not leaning: a filter on its edge only soaks along the bottom. Work them with a soft brush along the mesh or along the baffle channels rather than across them, because mesh distorts easily and a distorted filter no longer seals against the hood, so grease bypasses it entirely from then on.

Brush a baffle ALONG its channels rather than across them. The deposit collects in the channels, so brushing across pushes it sideways instead of out, which is why a baffle that looks brushed can still be loaded.

The impeller, which is where the complaints come from

Take the filters out and look up with a torch. The impeller sits in a housing above, and everything the filters missed has been thrown against that housing and baked into a brown lacquer.

That single deposit explains almost every rangehood complaint. The smell is warm grease in a warm housing every time the fan runs. The noise is grease building unevenly on the blades, putting the impeller out of balance so a quiet hood develops a hum. The poor extraction is a loaded impeller simply moving less air.

Isolate the power before anything goes near the fan, at the wall or at the circuit breaker if the hood is hard wired. An impeller starting while your hand is in the housing is a serious injury, and hoods are frequently wired to a switch that is not obvious.

How far you can get in depends on the model. Some impeller covers come away with a few screws; others are not designed to be opened by an owner. If it does not come off easily, clean what you can reach and stop, because a wet motor is a worse problem than a greasy one.

The ducting

You can wipe as far up the duct as your arm reaches with the filters out. Beyond that it needs equipment. On a hood more than a decade old it is worth having looked at, because fat condenses on the duct wall and hardens over the years, which both restricts airflow and creates a genuine fire risk. It is why commercial kitchens have ducting cleaned on a schedule and domestic ones almost never do.

Stainless canopies

Work along the brushed grain, never across it, with a soft cloth and warm soapy water. Cleaning across the grain leaves fine swirls that catch the light and are far harder to remove than the original mark. Dry it afterwards, because most Sydney water leaves mineral spots.

Oven Valets is an independent cleaning service. We are not affiliated with, authorised by, or endorsed by any appliance manufacturer named on this page. Brand names are used to identify the appliances we clean.